Ford Freestyle / 500 / Montego Duratec 3.0  Intake Manifold Removal

Ford Freestyle / 500 / Montego Duratec 3.0 Intake Manifold Removal



we've got a 2005 ford freestyle this would also be applicable to a Montego or Ford 506 Ford Duratec 3.0 and what we're doing today is we're replacing the rear coils and plugs cylinders one two and three along the back cylinder one toward the passenger cylinder three Category to the driver all along the rear in order to do that we need to take out the intake manifold along the way we're going to take it off the throttle body get that a good cleaning that's a source of problems for this vehicle causing surging and lurching the first thing you need to do is take the pressure out of the fuel system in my case it was relay number 53 you need to check yours closely pull the relay start the car let it run until it dies keep starting keep starting till it won't run at all that would be pressurize the fuel and pointing out the fuel rail right there there's the fuel line a couple of Clips a safety clip and a redundant I'm sorry a speed clip and a safety clip we'll be taking off of that alright now that if once you've depressurise the fuel system we need to get rid of that roll resistor I mean get rid of it we need to take it off can't get the intake off without getting the roll resistor out of there it's really easy two bolts on each side and one bolt in the middle and if yours is like mine the rubber in the middle is probably rotted out and we could maybe replace that in another video some cheap ways to do that with some volvo parts all right I've already unhooked the MAF sensor and there you can see how much room we've cleared up once we get rid of the rural resistor now I've from taking this out before I've broken a few clips so if something on mine looks a little different or you don't see me taking a clip off it's probably because last time I tried to take it out I broke a clip that's PCV tube we take that off as a green clip on it all so we took the MAF sensor out already and then also we need to remove that vacuum line I have my hand on right there that just pulls straight out it's friction so take the intake off or not the intake the air intake we're working on the intake I'm pointing out the throttle body there has some electronics on it that needs to come off there I have the air intake off and I'm just moving a few things out of the way and you have a clear picture of the throttle body they're held on by four bolts they come right out throttle body is also liquid-cooled meaning has coolant in it so if you just make sure your engine should be cool which should be an important point anyway for this so because we're going to be taking the fuel line off and when you take those off you will get a little spillage of some coolant just literally ten 15 cc's nothing you can't soak up with the rag but again you want to make sure it's cool and that the pressure is out of your system if you're not sure you can take the lid off your Degas bottle to make sure that the pressure is out of the system so unhook those coolant lines and as couple there's a again four bolts comes right out you can see the butterfly there I've cleaned mine recently but get in there with a good cleaner maybe a brush get the butterfly really clean get the hinges really clean and again that could prevent even correct a lot of surging or lurching that this vehicle can have set that aside all right there's EGR valve if you need to replace the EGR valve now is a good time because we're going to take that off there's a bolt at the bottom that unscrews and there's a solid tube that goes from the bottom of the EGR to the exhaust manifold that is a PCV clip goes to the PCV on the rear valve cover we're going to get to that PCV good chance to change that while you're back there another vacuum hose to take off and also back here is a that I'm pulling off right now is a evaporative tube ghost as part of the fuel evaporation system I that clip that's why it was so easy for me to pull off you'll have a little clip there alright I've shining my flashlight on the EGR tube I've got that in the screw from that then the nut from that has been unscrewed and is now clear and ready for the EGR to come out with the with the intake manifold so that will come right out with the intake manifold just leave the EGR valve attached and I've also removed the fuel line the fuel line has a speed clip and a safety clip and then it just lifts right up it grabs onto that little lip right there that you see on the on the fuel rail there's a fuel pressure sensor right there that just stays attached to the fuel rail the whole entire fuel rail along with the lower plenum the lower half of the intake will come out all is one unit so don't worry about unplugging that or taking that apart you do need to unplug the the fuel injector plug as I'm shining you can't quite see it right there I'll point it out in a second what I'm pointing out here is there are eight bolts that hold intake manifold in those come out rather easily they don't come out they actually stay attached with a sleeve so you're just going to loosen them fully until they're just Wiggly loose Tottori you know you've got them all the way out all right I've loosened the eight bolts and you can see there I'm shaking one and show you how it is all the way loose but it won't come out because it is attached to a sleeve there are eight of those four in the front and four what appears to be the middle there two down in the holes that one's kind of hard to get to but you can make it one inside each of the holes and one on the right side there and it should be loose if it's not loose you can knock it loose sometimes it sticks a little bit get a rubber mallet give it a little whack it should be loose by now and if you look on the lower right of the frame you'll see that's what you need to unplug that's the fuel injector electronics and I don't have it unplugged here but obviously I have to unplug that to take the intake out so it's ready to come out he lifts up and probably a little bit to the right obviously I'm narrating second hand the sound quality from my initial playthrough and video was pretty poor so I thought I would redo the sound for you and I could add a little better explanation there I've got the intake out again I just lift it out up into the right and straight up and out to the right a little bit and that's what we needed to unplug that's the controls all the fuel injectors all right there's your intake you look down inside you have easy access to the rear coils rear plugs there's a PCV valve now's a good time to change that out you might as well just change out all your coils all your ear plugs while you have this off just get it done all right don't forget to put a towel or a piece of cardboard or something over those intake holes so that you don't lose a tool or a screw or get dirt or debris down inside there so get something to cover that up here's the intake out and again there could be some residual fuel left in that fuel rail and it could dump out out of the tube right there and you see how everything's attached so be careful when you're flipping this I think you see me flip it here in a second and a little bit of gas does come out there's your EGR valve see how it's already all attached and you can see there's your fuel injectors six of them and that's the lower plenum some of the manuals tell you to leave that lower plenum in there – it doesn't really make sense the whole thing comes out as a unit just take them all out at once and now's a good time as any you're never going to have a better chance to get those fuel injectors replaced if you want to do that now now's a good time to do that EGR valve all right I'm doing the rear plugs always use good dielectric grease into the bottom of your coil and I also recommend a magnetic plug socket those stinking little rubber inserts they get a little oil on them and they always seem to work their way out and they get stuck on top of the plug and you can't get that out and just can be a big mess so invest six or eight bucks gets you a nice magnetic socket and always put those spark plugs in finger tight before you start putting the pressure on them you don't want to ruin your you don't want to cross your threads there I'm just pointing out that I got that covered up so you don't drop any tools down there here I think I'm just I was telling you again to use the magnetic plug sockets makes things a lot easier all right I've got everything back in I'm getting ready to put the intake manifold back again it pretty straightforward you need to line up the bottom of your EGR valve right on top of the EGR tube there and you have to work your way underneath that it's pretty straightforward it's pretty easy to get in there and wiggle down and get seated properly all right all back together take it for a test drive make sure you get all those vacuum hoses attached all your electronics attached take it for a spin it's always good to take video lots of digital pictures because makes it much easier to get back together a couple of the codes I was having problems with that cleared up just fine had a 302 I did have a 352 so definitely my coil was messing up and my EGR was having some electronics problems that's the 403 all right I hope this helps some of you shade tree mechanic sout there good luck