*ALL NEW* SCARPA Veloce indoor climbing shoe

*ALL NEW* SCARPA Veloce indoor climbing shoe


hi I’m Nathan welcome to scarpa so I
thought I might take you through some of the new climbing shoes and this one’s
pretty cool normally I don’t get that excited about beginner climbing shoes
but this one was definitely one that I really enjoyed Heines working on he did a
great job with this shoe and it’s really a completely different concept to what
people have as beginner climbing shoes so normally if I was to say it’s a beginner
climbing shoe the first thing you probably think is straight neutral flat
and a stiff midsole this is slightly asymmetrical slightly down turned with
a really soft midsole so we really didn’t think that beginner climbing
shoes necessarily meant that it had to be a stiff flat shoe and especially
considering that’s something that was generated for the last 20 years where
beginners really started on completely different ground and they start today
nowadays it’s quite common for beginners to start in an indoor bouldering gym on
a 45 degree wall and in the old days beginners started really on a slab maybe
with small footholds teetering their way up some technical balancy thing so we
really thought that that didn’t really match with the way that new beginners
were climbing now and the way that beginners wore their shoes we really
wanted to change that because they didn’t really like having their toe
right at the end of the climbing shoe so to do that we made a new last and you
can see this last is not really wide across the forefoot here it’s not
actually it’s just got much more space for the four toes on the end here so
that means that the beginner can have their heels seated right in the back of
the heel but actually get their big toe right to the tip and they’re not putting
pressure on these toes or more importantly the knuckles at the top and
that’s really what stop beginners from having more fitted climbing shoes and
what stopped them from being really precise was their climbing she wasn’t
really well fitted so we wanted to make it really really soft so we made the
midsole is the same as the Drago so you can see down here
floating big toe exactly the same as in the Drago really minimal midsole down
the back so that’s because we thought well beginners are using these things on
quite steep territory so it didn’t make sense to make them really really stiff
it also increases the comfort making a lot softer we made it a lot
more softer in the upper by using this m50 rubber in the top here so that’s the
same rubber that’s on the upper over Drago so it’s really soft really
elasticated once again that helps them get their big toe much closer to the
front of the shoe because the pressures a lot less and then you can see down the
tension system on the side here is this DTS tension system so same tension
system is on the furia air just a lot less holes so by the time we put the
Drago insert in and we had a really soft upper we thought we’d better give it
just a little bit of support so you’ll see the DTS tension system looks similar
to the fury air but a lot less holes in it so a little bit more support but
obviously it’s a flexible support that goes on the inside and then that system
doesn’t join onto the heel it’s got this PAF heel system so you can see how wide
this heel is that gives a nice wide fit on this pressure zone here so we can
gently push the foot closer to the front again getting the toes further at the
front of the shoe for better precision for beginners but with less pressure on
the heel at the back of it you can see it’s only got two holes whereas the
booster and the vapor lace has three holes so medium tension on this not
quite as much on these elastic bands the uppers fully synthetic so it’s one of
the only beginner shoes we make that seamless at the big toe so you can see
how big these sweeping panels are so that means that it’s still relatively
fast to make so we were able to keep the price point quite low but it’s still
seamless at this big toe bit which we thought was a really important thing to
introduce into beginner climbing shoes normally they’re straight stitched all
the way around and we stitch all our really high-performance shoes with
seamless toe boxes so we thought that doesn’t necessarily have to be we can
make a simpler pattern and still get the benefit of having this seamless toe box
at the front here and you can see how big the panels are and just this one
swooping stitch so that continues to make the shoe very very elasticated it’s
got this wave quite straight closure on the top here so really good variation
between closing it cinches it up nicely even pressure on the top there so the
other thing that you probably noticed is the sole down the bottom here so we use
this really soft s72 rubber so 72 comes from the shore a durometer rating so to
give you an idea like that is the softest rubber that we do so it’s
considerably softer than excess grip – which is another thing that’s not normal
on beginner shoes normally they go for this hard durable rubber we thought of
beginners like are on these really sloping smears using these bit slippery
footholds they do want a softer rubber and it does work better in this type of
shoe and we just increased the thickness to four millimeter so similar durability
but a lot better performance in the friction of the shoe so completely
different concept for what other people call beginner she is very soft very
supple you can wear it quite tight it’s got the latest technology that we’ve
used from all the other shoes but still at a really reasonable price 120 euros
so yeah it’s it’s right between our base price shoes velocity and origin and
below something like an RPO or a maestro we just noticed that like when beginners
came and they came to a shoe demos they gravitated straight towards like furious
and rugged they didn’t gravitate towards the stiff
neutral shoes and then you know why do they want those type of shoes and we
asked beginners why they wanted that and they said because it climb better on
what they were doing and it’s there on steep terrain
obviously soft shoes have much more flexibility to use your feet on steep
than what stiff shoes do so I think it was a lot of time of us telling
beginners that they needed a stiff shoe but they didn’t really want to stiff
shoe so having a soft shoe it gives you one other advantage that beginners are
looking for and that’s Comfort so I think giving them really stiff shoes
that were really supportive in a neutral shape it was what we wanted it wasn’t
what they wanted like you’re fine now like you can find the same big volume
two jumps and boulders on indoor climbing that you have an outdoor
climbing the only difference is probably you have your shoe on longer but that
doesn’t really work for indoor bouldering either because everyone’s
walking around with their shoes on so I think really now most of the indoor
climbing is basically more it’s the same whether it’s indoor
bowling or indoor climbing but I think outdoors definitely takes a different
type of shoe to be perform really well and the further you want to make
everything to something or all things well it doesn’t do the real things that
you want it to very well so we thought it was definitely time for a specialized
indoor climbing shoe and that’s what we wanted with the Veloce