2001 Dodge Ram 1500 - Intake Manifold and Plenum Gasket Repair - Part 5 (Reinstallation)

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 – Intake Manifold and Plenum Gasket Repair – Part 5 (Reinstallation)



all right I'm ready to start putting things back in the truck now I meant to mention before I put the intake back in that this is an opportune time to change out your spark plug wires distributor cap distributor road or if you haven't done that simply because while you've got the intake off it's easy to get to the distributor cap back here I didn't do it this time because I just did it when I did this repair back in September I was about about nine months ago so all that stuff's pretty new I'm not gonna mess with it but again just something to consider if you're going to take on this repair may as well get all your parts in order and do it at one time it's just a lot easier to do it while you're in here also now is a good time to check your valve cover bolts make sure they're they're nice and tight and also it's a good time to change the valve cover gaskets if you haven't done so if they look like they're leaking I also did that the last time I had the intake off and I don't see any signs of leakage I just check the bolts they were all pretty close to being the same same torque I'm not really sure what the torque spec is I looked in my manual and I couldn't find it I'm sure I can dig deeper and spend more time but I I just kind of arbitrarily guessed it like 84-inch pounds that's what the funding bolts were figure that's not going to be overly tight and it felt you know tight enough just by feel so that's when I sent my torque wrench to just now to check them they're all pretty pretty close to that so anyway I'm sure somebody can find that in the manual if you really want to but anyhow so I think the first thing I'm going to do is just put the fuel rail back on I've changed the fuel injector rings and I'll show that in a separate video I'll try to link the two videos together so you can watch that process and got my fuel rail sitting here ready to go just need to pop it back in to do that we will take a little bit of oil and dad my finger in it and I'll rub it around each ring before I push them down in their seats and just kind of push it down with your hands until you feel it pop into place and then we'll reinstall the four bolts there's one two three four bolts make your half inch bolts that hold the rail in place just like we did when we removed it I'm just working reverse order so let me put a little bit of oil film on these o-rings and I'll get it popped in place okay I've got the fuel rails installed and bolted down once again I didn't have my manual handy and didn't know the torque setting for these four half inch bolts once again arbitrarily just he used eighty four inch pounds these really aren't seeing any sort of force so I think that'll be fine if not I can they're easily accessible so I could always tighten them down later if I realize there's a problem so anyway now what I need to do is reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail I should be able to do that just by pushing this on like that and it's good to go now and I need to reinstall this clip just about pushing it down I need two hands to get it seated but anyway that's the idea just like we took it apart now I'm gonna move on to the throttle first I'm going to clean the throttle so I'll show you that process and then we'll reinstall it here on the top of the intake so let me climb out of the truck and I'll get moving on that all right so here's my throttle I want to clean it up it's not too dirty really but I want to clean off the throttle plates and also I want to clean out the idle air control which is this this part right here there's a hole back here in this section and there's like a pentile that this motor operates I guess it pushes it in or out to allow more or less air into the throttle when the truck is at idle you know when the throttle plates are totally closed that allows it to idle without choking it out you can see the tip of the pin tile there so I'm just gonna pull that off and clean it up a little bit and then I'll clean throttle plates and we'll put it back on truck so it has let's see it has two t25 Torx screws one there they're so just back this out and it will come out I'll show you a shot of that once I get it removed so be right back all right I've got the idle air control valve moot removed you can see up into the throttle there this is actually really clean a little bit of deposits but it's not bad overall I cleaned this last time I had to throttle off the truck so I'll give it a light scrub or some cleaner here's the actual valve itself and this this just goes in and out to adjust the air flow up coming in an idler so pretty simple just gonna clean it up with a rag maybe a little bit of carb cleaner and that'll be that will clean off the throw plates and put it back on the truck so I'll climb back in the vehicle in a minute and we'll get going okay I'm back in the truck now and I'm ready to reinstall the throttle I've cleaned up the gasket surface here and of course I clean the throttle itself so I'm ready to just set the new gasket in place like so and then set the new throttle I mean it set the throttle back on top of it of course it goes like like that with the cable attachments on the left I'm just going to line up the boltholes like that and of course then we'll reattach the throttle bracket and cables once again there's four half inch bolts that go through and bolts into the southland intake and once again I don't know the torque setting for these I'm just gonna go with 84 inch pounds again research later if I find it I'll post it at the video but anyway that's something to go with for now I'm not going to reconnect the fuel injector connections just yet because I may do a compression test while I'm standing in the engine bay no real reason other than just out of curiosity and I don't really want fuel spraying in the cylinders when I'm doing that so I may not connecting injectors just yet I'm not gonna have time to do it tonight but that's my plane anyway so anyway I'm gonna call it a night after I get this bolted in and I'll move going tomorrow ok I'm back in the truck now I'm ready to reinstall the throttle of course I've got it cleaned up and I also cleaned up the mating surface on top of the intake and ready to put it back in but first you want to make sure you re bolt the bracket throttle bracket to the throttle itself because the assembly here that the cables attached to it gets in your way and the bracket won't fit between the fuel rail and this assembly if you hold the throttle itself on before reattaching the bracket so anyway once again there's a there's three 5/16 bolts that go here and bolt it to there I'm sorry one two and then the third one there's right there there we go that bolts up right there and of course I can lift this up slide my gasket and bolt everything back down once again I don't know what the torque setting is for these bolts there's four half inch bolts that hold the throttle down and I I'm just gonna arbitrarily go with 84-inch balance again I'll check my manual later too funny to adjust that I will if I if I find it I'll try to post it in this video but anyway that's uh that's what I'm gonna do next I'm not going to reconnect the fuel injectors just yet because I'd like to do a compression test on the engine while I'm in here I don't have time to do it tonight so I'm just gonna pull the throttle in and probably call it a night you know we're pouring some more tomorrow after work but I'd like to do the compression test so I don't really want to have the injector spraying fuel into the engine while I'm doing that so anyway that's why I'm kind of going out of order here I would have connected the injectors before it with the throttle back in but it's not gonna be that difficult to get my hand back there doing so anyway that's my logic I'm gonna bolt this in and call it a night and I'll be back tomorrow to keep on putting it back together okay back at it today I think in the last clip I had reinstalled the throttle body and I ended up checking the manual for the torque spec on that and I think in the last clip I had just guessed at it and was way off so I adjusted that I believe the manual says 200 inch pounds I'll double check that for sure and put it in the I'll put it in an annotation when I post this video to make sure that you know what it is but I believe it was 200 inch pounds so I be just at the four bolts half inch bolts holding the throttle down to 200 inch pounds rattles all set I've reconnected all the cables and everything all reconnected the vacuum hose here all the electricals are reconnected and I like to use a dab of dielectric tune-up grease when I put that in any when I make up any sort of electrical connection I use a little bit of grease just helps keep water out this is the kind that I've got anyway just insurance basically I've also I've done my I pulled all my spark plugs and did a compression test looked at this plugs they were all pretty nasty from the oil that I was sucking into the intake so I've cleaned them up reinstall them all it's a good time to go ahead and check them anyway I think the manual says the correct torque on those is 26 to 30 foot pounds so Regents pre-installed my plugs you know if you're doing this project it's not a bad idea to at least check the plugs while you're in here because it's a lot easier to access them more you're kind of standing in the engine bay like I am so all my plugs are back in so I've reconnected the fuel injector connections now or so I labeled all them before it's pretty obvious where they go because they they branch off this wiring harness in succession so there's pretty much only one spot they can go but those were all reconnected I've got the belief this is the map sensor here that's reconnected got the temperature sensor here so basically I'm down to the cooling system and then I can reinstall the alternator and the AC and bracket I'm also going to probably change the o-ring on this coolant pipe here the kit that I bought with intake gaskets and everything gave me a new o-ring since we've already had to remove this bolt that holds this pipe in place I'll probably pull this out never replace the o-ring somebody to find the o-ring here said it is in my kit somewhere well here yeah here it is there's the o-ring and here's the there was that gasket I also purchased a new thermostat housing see if I can find it here and my old one was pretty corroded I just picked this up in my local auto parts store and it also comes over yeah it's got an extra thermostat gasket but there's the housing this side goes front I believe that it sits down right there we're setting the thermostat so that'll probably be my next step is to reconnect this heater hose here reconnect reinstall the thermostat and this housing and then I'll work on this cooling pipe here and reinstall the bypass hose here also Mike it gave me a new bypass hose so there's that so let me get this connected I'll show you a quick shot before I put the thermostat housing on and then we'll move along